Material: Silk Satin, Silk Tulle Reseau, French Valenciennes Lace, Silk Floss Embroidery
Maker: Helen Minneapolis
Size: Shirt Waist/Blouse > Blouse Length ~ apx 18 & 1/2 inches, Sleeve Length ~
apx. 24 inches
Waist ~ 29 inches,
Underarm
to Underarm, Flat Front 20 inches, Flat Back 18 & 1/2 inches
Armhole
Opening ~ 16 inches,
Skirt > Length ~ apx. 39 inches, Satin underskirt
is 37 inches long in front, graduating to 38 inches long
in
back Waist ~ 27 & 1/2 inches, Hips ~ generous, up to apx. 48 inches
Quantity: 1 gown
= 2 pieces
This is a wonderful Edwardian confection of cream silk satin, silk chiffon, embroidered
tulle reseau, and wonderful French lace. The beautifully constructed gown, made
of the finest materials with fabulous attention to style, grace and feminine appeal,
dates to apx. 1915 - 16.
It is comprised of two pieces, connected at waist via with the typical hooks and
eyes, completed with the attached matching self sash belt. Shirt Waist ~ Blouse
opens at front, closing with a multitude of hooks and eyes, as well as strategically
places snaps. Lightly boned, with interior silk faille ribbon belt. Formed of multiple
layers of silk satin, silk chiffon and embroidered silk tulle reseau. Double layers
of tulle net are embroidered with different patterns/designs; under layer is vertical
lines, exterior is a floral motif, executed in a very fine silk floss padded satin
stitch to match the skirt. Sleeves feature same two layers of tulle net, although
under layer has also been embellished with more of the fine embroidery. Seven tiny,
tiny crochet covered buttons, with loop closures, adorn each cuff. Square collar
at back. Blouse further decorated with a lovely 20 inch long asymmetrical embroidered
tulle drape at back left.
Skirt opens at back, closing with hooks, eyes and snaps. This closure is covered
with a 20 inch wide decorative tulle panel or train. Waist band is formed of same
silk faille ribbon as blouse belt, covered with hand stitched tulle net. Body of
skirt consists of numerous layers. The first is an attached silk satin slip. Next
is a tulle underskirt that is decorated with two, 3 & 1/4 inch wide horizontal bands
of exquisite French Valenciennes bobbin lace, that we believe is hand made. The exterior
skirt layer is fine silk tulle reseau that has been completely hand embroidered,
not with crude chain stitch embroidery, like often seen in the typical Tambour embroidered
net lace, but rather fine silk floss padded satin stitch, in a very elegant floral
garland motif. This matches the embroidery on exterior layer of blouse.
Although some of the longer seams appear to be stitched by machine, all of the fine
work and there is a lot of it, has been completely hand executed.
It is cream or ecru in color, but due to different lighting factors this was difficult
to capture accurately in our images. Please see second image of blouse close up,
where the sleeve is draped across front, near sash. This image reflects the closest
match to actual color.
The garment does have a beautifully embroidered silk satin label attached to ribbon
belt in blouse. (see last image) It reads: Helen Minneapolis
We are extremely pleased to relate that this beautifully made, very wearable size
ensemble is in extremely nice condition. All of the materials used in the construction
of the dress remain very strong, soft & supple.
After examining the gown very carefully I noted three tiny, light marks to blouse
and one to skirt. I am happy to say the aforementioned marks to both blouse and
skirt only affect the exterior tulle net. Due to manner of construction it is possible
to separate the tulle from the satin in both areas, so I think even just dabbing
with a cloth may resolve. Regardless, these are small concerns; largest to blouse
is apx. size of pencil eraser, next about half that size and smallest about pencil
point size. Close together and quite light, located below bust, a few inches above
the waist, so not in a prominent area. Mark to skirt is similar light color that
I would describe as a very narrow diffused line a couple of inches in length. Due
to pleats, gathers, layers etc. these are difficult to detect and definitely not
glaring issues.
The underarm areas do also have very slight discoloration, mainly
to the inside satin liner, but fabric appears to be in really good condition, with
no holes, or noted deterioration, etc. Due to the small area and lightness of marks,
as well as the numerous layers, even with the sleeve raised, it is difficult to detect
on dress exterior. We have included two images of inside of blouse, for additional
reference. Please note I have not attempted to clean this gown in any way & I believe
that a good cleaning would definitely freshen the garment and likely resolve the
noted marks. Silk satin skirt slip appears to be completely free of marks, stains,
etc.
All of the fabric, as well as the tulle netting is in extremely nice condition
and free of holes. We did discover a very well done old repair to netting at blouse
back, located at lower left. Please see images of blouse back at apx. the 7:00 o’clock
position and you may be able to detect. It appears that wearer snagged just the
exterior net layer on something and tore the mesh. A nice repair was done, so this
is not conspicuous, but there nonetheless. Really the only other thing I could find
with the entire dress that might bother the absolute perfectionist is that some of
the picot edging at the very bottom of the embroidered tulle skirt is missing. This
is not noticeable at all, because this picot edging is so extremely tiny you practically
have to use a magnifying glass to see it even when it is up close to your face, let
alone down around the floor where it is located when gown is worn.
After examining
the gown very thoroughly I believe that every single original hook, eye, snap, button
and loop is present and account for, which is truly a small miracle in itself! I
may have missed one somewhere, but I really don’t think so.
Whether this dress was originally used as an evening, party, dance or wedding gown
is debatable, however there is one additional feature of the ensemble that I believe
indicates it may in fact been a wedding gown. On blouse back, just above the belt
there are three small round fabric/thread covered circles, with two snaps located
just to left and right of these circles. They appear to be original and not something
added later. I believe that a train was hooked and snapped on here, which indicates
that the gown was intended for a very formal occasion, yet attached in such away
that it could easily be removed, possibly for a celebration after, or to make the
gown more functional for other occasions. (sash covers when not in use) Of course
I suppose it is possible that a ball gown was designed the same way, but I have not
seen any Edwardian gowns with a similar feature. Sadly the train is no longer with
the gown, but period tulle can still be found and easily added if desired.
A very fancy Edwardian gown, beautifully constructed by a talented modiste, using
very fine, high quality period silks, satins and French lace, with an abundance of
exquisite hand work.
